Installation Guide

How to hang a wallpaper mural and apply a wall decal

Each goes up by its own method. Open whichever one you're about to do.

Installation Guide

How to hang a wallpaper mural

What you need to know to do justice to a mural printed for your own wall: preparation, the overlap (double-cut) method, and drying.

The tool list, 12 illustrated steps and the trimming video.

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We don't offer an installation service. The mural goes up by the same method as standard wallpaper, and most of our US customers hang it themselves with this guide. If you'd rather have it done, choose an experienced wallpaper installer — because it is a bespoke design, experience matters. Avoid handing it to a painter or plasterer.

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Overlap (Double Cut) Trimming Video
Joining the seams with a double cut · opens on YouTube
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Before you start

1
Production margin

To allow for a measuring slip or a wall that isn't quite square, your mural is printed 5 cm (2 in) larger than your measurements on every edge. If your measurements are right, that excess remains on all four sides; it is shared out equally during hanging and trimmed at the end.

2
Overlap margin

The rolls are printed with a 2–2.5 cm (about 1 in) overlap. It is removed with a double cut during hanging; when the job is done there is no overlapping edge left.

3
A suitable wall

A wall painted over primer, or one coated only with wallpaper primer, is suitable. Roughness should be sanded off; plaster faults and hollows should be made good.

4
Damp

A surface with a damp problem always causes trouble; fix the cause before you hang anything.

5
Paint drying time

If the surface was recently painted, it should have dried for at least a week.

What you'll need

  • Tape measure and pencil
  • Plumb line, or a laser / spirit level
  • Non-woven wallpaper paste
  • Paste brush or roller
  • Smoothing squeegee (plastic spatula)
  • Very fine-bladed wallpaper knife and spare blades
  • Steel ruler
  • Seam roller
  • Clean sponge and cloth

Step by step

1

Prepare the wall

Brush off dust and loose material. Fill hollows, cracks and plaster faults with filler, sand them and let them dry completely. Wait at least a week on a freshly painted surface.

1234
2

Lay the rolls out on the floor

Open the box and lay the numbered rolls out in order. The rolls are printed with a 2–2.5 cm (about 1 in) overlap: a figure cut off at the edge of one roll continues at the start of the next. Check this match on the floor before going up on the wall.

1234FULL PRINT SIZE1234
3

Read the layout template

The template in the box is specific to this wall: the full print size, the roll order and which way up each roll goes are all marked on it. Keep it to hand throughout.

roll 1 width − 5 cm margin
4

Draw the starting line

From the left corner of the wall, measure the width of the first roll minus the 5 cm (2 in) margin, and draw a perfectly vertical line with a plumb line or laser. Wall corners are rarely truly vertical; this line is the reference for the whole job.

BACK OF THE ROLL
5

Apply the paste

Spread non-woven wallpaper paste evenly and thinly on the back of the roll. A little can go on the wall too, but not so much that it squeezes out at the seams.

5 cm5 cm5 cm
6

Hang the first roll

The roll starts in the left corner, with its right edge aligned to the starting line. If the measurements are right, 5 cm (2 in) of excess remains at the top, the bottom and the corner; this is the safety margin and must be shared equally between the four edges. Otherwise the design drifts one way and the opposite edge is left short.

7

Smooth it with the squeegee

Smooth from the center outwards with the squeegee (plastic spatula), pushing air and excess paste out towards the edges. Don't pull or stretch the paper.

2–2.5 cm overlap
8

Overlap the second roll

Hang the second roll so it overlaps the first by 2–2.5 cm (about 1 in). Adjust until the design matches exactly; non-woven paper can be slid a little before it dries.

9

Make the double cut

Cut through both layers in a single stroke down the middle of the overlap, against a steel ruler. The knife must be a very fine-bladed wallpaper knife; a thick blade tears the paper. Snap off to a fresh blade for every roll. Keep the blade shallow enough not to damage the plaster; if the plaster is scored, the seam can lift over time.

10

Close the seam

Remove the thin strips from underneath and on top. The two edges meet exactly; smooth the seam again with the squeegee. When you're done, no overlapping edge remains.

11

The remaining rolls and the edge margins

Hang the remaining rolls in the same order. When all the rolls are up, trim the 5 cm (2 in) excess at the ceiling, the baseboard and the corners with a sharp blade against a steel ruler.

48 hours
12

Let it dry

Leave the wall for 2 days at normal room temperature. Babies should not sleep in the room during this time (while the paste dries). Don't run the air conditioning to speed it up; the windows can be opened now and then. A slow 48-hour dry is ideal. Don't prick small air bubbles that appear while drying with a pin or anything sharp; if the hanging was done properly, they disappear on their own once drying is complete.

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Installation Guide.pdf
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Installation Guide

How to apply a wall decal

Our decals are self-adhesive; no paste, water or heat is needed. On the right wall it is a 2–3 minute job.

The hard part isn't sticking it on — it's the preparation before you do.

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Every decal order comes with an application squeegee and a clear height-measuring ruler in the box.

Before you start

1
Is your wall suitable?

The ideal is a smooth wall painted over primer with a good-quality washable interior paint. Limewash and heavily textured paints won't hold a decal — they come away when the surface is rubbed anyway. Heavily embossed wallpaper, bare plaster and gloss (oil-based) paint may not be suitable either; test first.

2
A damp wall

We don't recommend applying to a wall with a damp problem at all. The paint isn't really holding on that wall; once the decal is on, both decal and paint can be ruined. Take care.

3
Test your paint

Use one of the small decals in your set to test how sound your paint is. If flakes of paint come away on the back of the decal, the decal won't hold on that surface either — and even if it does, it is likely to damage the surface when removed. That comes from paint applied over poor or incomplete preparation when the room was built. It has nothing to do with which paint was used; it comes from work skipped or done badly from the plastering stage on.

4
How new is the paint?

Paint may look dry, but it takes weeks to cure fully, and it off-gasses the whole time. On a freshly painted wall, wait at least 2 weeks, 3 if you can. A decal applied too early can lift the paint with it when removed.

5
The surface must be clean and dry

Wipe with a slightly damp cloth; don't use soap, detergent or surface cleaner. Cleaners containing silicone kill adhesion outright. Let it dry.

6
Room temperature

15–25 °C (60–77 °F) is ideal. Directly above a radiator, a surface in direct sun all day, and steamy rooms like a bathroom aren't suitable; the decal will stick, but they aren't the best places for it.

Step by step

1
Let the larger decals flatten out

Take a decal that arrived rolled out of the tube and leave it flat for a while. A decal that has lost its curl is far easier to position.

2
Lay it out on the floor first

Before going up on the wall, arrange the pieces on the floor in the layout you want, and plan where each piece will go. If your paint is sound, the decals are removable and moving one is easy — but planning ahead is still a good idea.

3
Peel it off the backing paper — but don't throw the backing away

Starting at one corner, peel the decal slowly off its backing paper. Peel from the broad parts of the design, not from the thinnest point that could tear: from the bunny's body, not its whiskers. Keep the backing paper — if you ever want to take the decal down, or take it with you when you move, that is the surface you put it back on.

4
Apply according to the type of decal

Depending on the type of decal, apply it from the top down or from the bottom up.

5
Use the squeegee from the center outwards

Smooth from the center out towards the edges with the application squeegee from your box.

6
Any remaining bubbles

Because of the material, air escapes very easily. If a bubble won't go, don't prick it with a pin: lift that part of the decal from the edge and lay it down again. The material is repositionable, so it allows this.

7
One last pass around the edges

Press the edges and fine details down with the corner of the squeegee, not a fingertip. The adhesive settles in over the first 24 hours.

For decals with a height-measuring ruler

With the ruler pieces, don't judge the height by eye; measure from the floor. Note that the ruler starts at 30 cm (about 12 in). If you're starting the ruler above the baseboard, remember to add the baseboard height. Before sticking, measure at two separate points with a tape measure and mark with a pencil; a ruler measured from a single point almost always ends up crooked.

Removing and reusing

You can lift a corner of the decal with a fingernail. Pull slowly and at a shallow angle to the wall; pulling fast at a right angle strains the paint. Our clear height rulers are not removable in the way our other decals are; take extra care with those.

What to avoid

  • Rough, limewash or velvet-textured paint
  • Paint less than 2 weeks old
  • A damp, mouldy or blistering wall
  • Applying over embossed or textured wallpaper
  • Above a radiator, direct sun all day, bathroom steam
  • A surface wiped with soap, detergent or a silicone cleaner